NORTHERN CAIRNGORMS AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS FRI 24/1/03 Heavy overnight rain led to a period of wet snow instability. Avalanche and cornice debris was noted below North-West and North aspects at 950 metres. Wet slab exists above the old snow-ice layer and the previously noted weak layer is now saturated. Tests on a North-facing site at 950 metres showed easy clean shears in this layer but fractures did not easily propagate. The avalanche hazard is Considerable (Category 3). AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SAT 25/1/03 Further outbreaks of rain overnight will be followed by cooler conditions on a strong South-West to West airflow. By daylight, snow showers will start to build fresh slab on all Northerly and Easterly aspects above around 600 metres. This slab will contain instabilities and will show marginal adhesion to the re-frozen wet snow layers below. Avalanches are likely mainly on North-West to East facing slopes above 900 metres. The avalanche hazard will be Considerable (Category 3). CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Patches from 600m, substantial areas on corrie headwalls, most N. Corries easy gullies still complete ICING: Surprisingly, some rickety ice pitches remain. COMMENT: A welcome return to colder conditions for Saturday. LOCHABER AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS FRI 24/1/03 A major thaw has taken place since Thursday evening with summit temperatures of around 4øc. The snowpack has greatly reduced with main deposits of wet snow restricted to high gully lines and corries. The avalanche hazard is Moderate (Category 2). AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SAT 25/1/03 Colder temperatures expected early on Saturday morning will re-freeze any remaining snow patches. Fresh snow above 600m and a strong W wind will form new areas of unstable snow. Accumulations will generally be restricted to the tops of E aspects. The avalanche hazard will be Moderate (Category 2). CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Patchy cover of wet snow remaining. ICING: Freezing level dropping to 600m on Saturday morning. COMMENT: Remaining windy. GLENCOE AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS FRI 24/1/03 Thaw conditions with very heavy rain at all levels have reduced the snow cover to patches in the higher gullies and corries. The remaining snowpack is soft wet and is generally stable on all but the steepest slopes. The avalanche hazard is Moderate (Category 2). AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SAT 25/1/03 Mild conditions with heavy rain at all levels will persist overnight. Colder conditions by morning will bring snow showers above 600 metres and re-freeze existing deposits. Strong Westerly winds will form isolated areas of windslab mainly around the tops of sheltered summit gullies and slopes with a North to East aspect. New accumulations of windslab are not expected to be deep or extensive however bonding to underlying re-frozen snow may be suspect. The avalanche hazard will be Moderate (Category 2). CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Patchy cover in high gullies and corries ICING: None COMMENT: Getting colder on Saturday, windy. SOUTHERN CAIRNGORMS AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS FRI 24/1/03 The freezing level has been well above all summits today. The recent deposits that are deepest on S to W aspects above 900 metres are now soft and wet. They remain moderately bonded to the firmer snow beneath. No avalanche debris was noted in Lochnagar today but ice and stone falls were. The avalanche hazard is Moderate (Category 2). AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SAT 25/1/03 There will be further reduction in the snowpack overnight as heavy rain at all levels is forecast. By morning the freezing level will have lowered to 900 metres and precipitation will have turned to snow showers. Gale force winds will rapidly build moderately to weakly bonded windslab in very sheltered locations on NE to SE aspects above 900 metres. The avalanche hazard will be Considerable (Category 3). CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Patchy cover from 900 metres. Easy Lochnagar gullies still complete. ICING: Plus 4.5 degrees centigrade at 1200 metres today! COMMENT: Windslab will build in gully exits during the day. CREAG MEAGAIDH AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS FRI 24/1/03 Persistent rain on a South-West wind combined with summit temperatures of plus 6 degrees has dramatically diminished the existing snowpack. Only isolated areas of generally well bonded wet, soft snow still persist in gullies, hollows and lee slopes of North to East aspects above 900 metres. Only grass and heather exist in other areas. The avalanche hazard is Low (Category 1). A hazard from falling rock and ice from steep ground will continue in the mild, wet conditions. AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SAT 25/1/03 Severe gale force Westerly winds are forecast with rain turning to snow showers by morning. Existing wet snow deposits will harden, as temperatures lower and isolated shallow deposits of fresh moderately bonded windslab will begin to form. Sheltered hollows, the tops of gullies and steep scarp slopes will be affected particularly where fresh deposits build on old snow on North to East aspects above 900 metres. Moderate (Category 2) avalanche hazard. CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Nearly all gone. Even the deepest of gullies such as Raeburn's and Easy gully remain broken. ICING: Non existent with no routes climbable. COMMENT: Even standing on the summit praying to the `Great God of Browness' did not change the rain to snow. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------