NORTHERN CAIRNGORMS AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS SAT 10/1/04 Strong Westerly winds once again exceeded 100 mph with temperatures at the summit of minus 2 degrees. In the corries wind direction has been highly variable contributing to some small slab build-up on various aspects above 950 metres. This slab is stable and does not shear in field tests. The avalanche hazard is Low (Category 1). AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SUN 11/1/04 Temperatures are forecast to cool further with snow showers and South-West winds changing to Westerly. There will be further slab build-up on a variety of aspects in the high corries. Generally snowpack stability will remain good but in a few isolated pockets above 1000 metres on steep slopes, snowpack stability will be fair. The avalanche hazard will be Moderate (Category 2) CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Variety of snow surfaces; soft slab, re-frozen rain soaked surface and wind crust. ICING: More 'mixed' climbing available than ice climbing. COMMENT: Lots of parties out in the Northern Corries. LOCHABER AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS SAT 10/1/04 Snow above 800 metres and strong South-West winds have continued to form areas of unstable windslab in sheltered locations. Greatest accumulations are on North, North-East, East and South-East aspects above 1000 metres. The avalanche hazard is Considerable (Category 3). Avalanche activity noted on North-East and South-East aspects above 1000 metres, Carn Mor Dearg. AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SUN 11/1/04 Snow overnight and during Sunday with strong South-West to West winds will add to existing unstable areas of windslab. Greatest accumulations will be on North, North-East, East and South-East aspects above 1000 metres, where avalanches will occur. The avalanche hazard will be High (Category 4). Unstable cornices will form readily with the strong winds. CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: General cover improving above 800m. ICING: Becoming colder for Sunday. COMMENT: Strong winds overnight will ease during Sunday. GLENCOE AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS SAT 10/1/04 Wet snow is lying on many aspects above 850 metres. A light melt freeze crust has formed on many slopes above 950 metres. Fresh windslab is accumulating in sheltered summit gullies and around the tops of slopes with a mainly North to East aspect. Some of these accumulations are deep and are moderate to weakly bonded. The avalanche hazard is Considerable (Category 3). Cornice debris noted below Twisting Gully AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SUN 11/1/04 Sleet and snow overnight and through Sunday with South-West becoming Westerly gales will continue to form unstable accumulations of windslab in all sheltered gullies and on slopes with a North through East to South-East aspect mainly above 850 metres. Avalanches and cornice collapse are likely. The avalanche hazard will be Considerable (Category 3) CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Snow above 850 metres. ICING: Ice forming on exposed rocks above 950 metres COMMENT: New snow on higher ridges and buttresses, Some deep soft accumulations in gullies. Slightly colder outlook for Sunday. SOUTHERN CAIRNGORMS AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS SAT 10/1/04 It was a windy day with the freezing level fluctuating around the 900 metre level. Softer deposits are to be found on mainly N though E to SE aspects above 1000 metres. Stability of these deposits has improved and older snow is now starting to re-freeze. The avalanche hazard is Low (Category 1). AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SUN 11/1/04 It will be another windy day with some snow showers. New accumulations will be found in very sheltered locations on N to E aspects above 700 metres. On steeper slopes where new accumulations have some depth and overlie older snow-ice they will be moderately to weakly bonded. The avalanche hazard will be Considerable (Category 3). CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Most gullies at Lochnagar are still holding reasonable amounts of snow. ICING: Not good but cold enough to start freezing. COMMENT: Buttresses have a thin snow covering. Turf mostly frozen. CREAG MEAGAIDH AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS SAT 10/1/04 Late snow showers on South-West winds have combined to create localised accumulations of marginally-stabilised windslab on steep, sheltered North to East aspects above 900 metres. The avalanche hazard is Considerable (Category 3). The remainder of the snowpack is stable. AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SUN 11/1/04 Snow showers on South-West to West winds will continue to build windslab on all North to East aspects above 900 metres. Stability will remain marginal and the avalanche hazard will be Considerable (Category 3). New, fragile cornices will continue to build over these same steep lee slopes, gully heads and exit ramps. What remains of the snowpack on all other aspects and elevations will be stable. CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Effective snowline was 800 metres on Saturday. ICING: Still poor but improving in colder conditions. COMMENT: Many gully lines remain thin or broken. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------