NORTHERN CAIRNGORMS AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS FRI 4/2/00 Rain and mild temperatures have completely saturated the snowpack, which is depleted below 800 metres. In most recent slab formation, on Easterly aspects above 900 metres, easy shears are still evident and the deeper old snow-ice is very wet. Most cornices above North and East aspects have already gone. The avalanche hazard is Moderate (Category 2). AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SAT 5/2/00 Continuing mild conditions will lead to further attrition of the snowpack. Although there will be a gradual stabilisation, isolated deep pockets of weakly bonded snow will remain on steeper East and South-East facing slopes above 900 metres. On these aspects, remaining cornices will be liable to collapse. There is some hazard of full-depth avalanche over rock slabs on any aspect, while rock and ice fall are also a possibility. The avalanche hazard will be Moderate (Category 2). CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Corrie headwalls and gullies still show adequate cover. ICING: Collapsing ice pitches possible. Plateau icing still evident. COMMENT: Colder conditions from late p.m. Saturday. LOCHABER AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS FRI 4/2/00 A thaw at all levels has produced a moist and generally stable snowpack. Some localised instabilities are present on steep NE, E and SE aspects. The avalanche hazard is Moderate (Category 2). AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SAT 5/2/00 The thaw will continue overnight and during Saturday. The existing snowpack will gradually consolidate and stabilise at all levels. Remaining cornices will be prone to collapse. The avalanche hazard will be Low (Category 1). Later on Saturday afternoon, snow showers and Westerly winds will produce fresh areas of windslab on E aspects above 1000 metres. Accumulations are not expected to be significant until early evening. CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Wet snow at all levels. ICING: Hazard of falling ice in the thaw. COMMENT: Turning colder on Saturday evening. GLENCOE AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS FRI 4/2/00 The mild and wet conditions currently affecting the area have moistened the snowpack at all levels. Greatest accumulations of snow exist in the higher North to East facing corries with areas of firm snow ice remaining on exposed slopes. Accumulations of old windslab remain mainly in sheltered gullies with a North to East aspect above 900 metres. Where deeper windslab overlies old snow ice the Avalanche hazard is Moderate (Category 2). AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SAT 5/2/00 Mild and wet conditions will maintain the snowpack in a soft moist condition. In most areas stability will remain good but where soft wet slab remains in steeper summit gullies with a North to East aspect above 900 metres and on slopes below cornices the avalanche hazard will remain Moderate (Category 2). Colder conditions with light snow later in day will start to consolidate the existing snowpack. CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Wet snow above 750m. ICING: Thawing ice above 900m. COMMENT: Limited conditions due to thaw SOUTHERN CAIRNGORMS AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS FRI 4/2/00 With the freezing level well above the summits a heavy thaw is taking place. The moist snowpack is generally well bonded with only a few localised areas of moderately bonded snow persisting in some sheltered E to S locations. The avalanche hazard is Moderate (Category 2). AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SAT 5/2/00 Continuing thaw conditions will produce a wet but stable snowpack with recent accumulations becoming well bonded. The avalanche hazard will be Low (Category 1). Cornices should be treated with caution and falling ice and rock will continue to be a hazard. CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Mainly above 900 metres in N to E corries and on high plateau areas. ICING: Buttresses are black and waterfalls are appearing in the gullies. Deeper ice and snow gullies are still there. COMMENT: Many of the Lochnagar routes are now broken with much ice falling off the cliffs on Friday. CREAG MEAGAIDH AVALANCHE HAZARD 1500 HRS FRI 4/2/00 Heavy rain at all levels has saturated the snowpack. Areas of wet windslab are present in North through East to South-East facing gullies and hollows above 800 metres. Sluffing of snow from steep rock slabs has been observed and fresh cornices have become unstable: debris from cornice collapse was noted in Coire Ardair. The avalanche hazard is Considerable (Category 3). AVALANCHE HAZARD OUTLOOK SAT 5/2/00 With wet and very mild conditions continuing until late on Saturday the snowpack will remain soft and saturated. Wet windslab deposits will persist in North through East to South- East facing gullies and hollows above 800 metres. Cornices will be unstable and prone to collapse and there will be some sluffing of snow and ice from steep rock slabs. The avalanche hazard will be Considerable (Category 3). CLIMBING CONDITIONS SNOW DISTRIBUTION: Gullies and hollows are holding the most snow, patchy elsewhere. ICING: Thawing rapidly with temperatures reaching plus 5 degrees C on the tops, some large nasty holes appearing on many routes. COMMENT: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------